**Walnut Cultivation Techniques and Pruning Practices**
First, planting techniques:
Walnuts thrive in warm climates, deep soils, well-drained sandy or black soil, and are best planted on sunny slopes or sheltered areas. When developing walnut trees in barren hills, it's essential to build terraces first, dig large fish-scale pits, and ensure effective soil and water conservation. The best time for planting is early spring, after the soil thaws, or late autumn, after the leaves fall but before the ground freezes. In drought-prone regions, autumn planting often results in higher survival rates compared to spring planting. Autumn-planted seedlings should be covered with soil to prevent them from drying out. The method involves bending the seedlings slightly to secure the soil and then cultivating around the roots. In the following spring, break up the soil and straighten the trunk.
Planting methods:
Walnut seedlings have a long main root, so each planting hole should be 0.8 to 1 meter wide. Start by filling the bottom of the pit with topsoil and basal fertilizer, about 20 centimeters from the surface. Soak the roots of the seedlings in water before planting, then place them vertically into the hole, spreading the roots around. Backfill with soil, water thoroughly, and compact the soil to ensure good contact.
Second, pruning techniques:
Pruning is crucial for early fruiting, high yield, and stable production. Unlike other fruit trees, walnuts are pruned after the harvest, when the leaves haven’t turned yellow yet. In North China, the ideal time is between "White Dew" and "Cold Dew." Although the temperature is lower at this time, the wound heals slowly, but nutrient loss is minimized. Young saplings can be pruned earlier, starting from the "Summer Heat" period. Spring pruning is usually done just before or after the summer season. If pruning is too late, large leaves may consume too much energy, which is harmful to tree growth.
1. Pruning young saplings:
The goal is to develop a strong tree structure, expand the canopy quickly, and encourage early fruiting. Walnut trees naturally grow with an open, sparse shape.
- **Sparse Layered Shape:** A clear central leader is preferred, with 5–7 main branches divided into 2–3 layers. This ensures a large canopy, high yield, and a focus on pruning between 1.5–2.5 meters. On poor soil, proper positioning and spacing of branches are important. Main branches should be spaced 1–1.5 meters apart, not too close. The first lateral branches should be about 1.5 meters from the trunk. If branches are too close, adjust accordingly. Maintain the dominance of the central leader, as changing it is difficult and not recommended.
- **Natural Spreading Shape:** No distinct central leader; instead, 2–3 main branches form a forked or tripled structure. To accelerate canopy expansion and promote early fruiting, summer shearing and autumn cutting can be used to stimulate new shoots. At the end of summer, cut back the growing tips by more than 50 cm to encourage lateral shoot development. In autumn, trim the growing branches by one-third to one-quarter, focusing on outer buds to promote further branching and crown expansion. Thin, weak one-year-old branches can also be pruned to improve air circulation.
2. Pruning for fruiting:
Walnut fruit buds are mixed buds, so they are not typically pruned unless necessary. Focus on removing dense, dead, diseased, or overlapping branches to improve air circulation and light penetration, which supports healthy fruit development.
- **Pruning of fruiting branches:** One-year-old branches on the periphery of the canopy are often the next year’s fruiting wood and should generally not be shortened. However, if there are too many, they can cause canopy closure, reducing ventilation and light. Thinning these branches helps stabilize yields and support tree health.
- **Extension pruning:** For trees aged 15–30 years, short-cut 1-year-old extension branches from the top of the main branches, just below the top buds. If the branch isn’t strong, cut it back to full shoots to expand the canopy and increase fruiting sites.
- **Leggy branch pruning:** These branches come from dormant buds on older branches and are common in vigorous or aging trees. Traditionally, they were removed at the base, but now they are sometimes retained to produce fruit. In Hebei and Shandong provinces, leggy branches in thin areas can be cut back by 1/2 to 1/3, depending on their strength. After 2–3 years, they can bear fruit, helping fill gaps and expand the fruiting area.
- **Pendulous branch pruning:** Cut back pendulous branches at the fork, remove any pest-infested stems, and prune overly dense branches annually to maintain tree balance and productivity.
In this category, we offer a wide range of Urine contaciner and Shit cup for transporting samples and carrying out various laboratory examinations. All of them are sterilized.
Furthermore, you are also offered other vessels for medical purposes, such as Ipette Electronic pipette, Pipette tips, Cuvette cups, Plastic Test tubes and Urine analyzer. If you can not find the one you need, please contact our customner service directly for more details.
Urine Container,Disposable Sterile Urine Container,Plastic Urine Container,60Ml Urine Specimen Container
NINGBO YINGMED MEDICAL INSTRUMENTS CO.,LTD , https://www.chinayingmed.com