Fertility Bed Breeding, also known as the Fermentation Bed Pig Farming Technique, was originally developed by Japanese farmers and later adopted into practical farming. Since 1992, researchers at Kagoshima University in Japan began to systematically study this method, gradually establishing a comprehensive and well-structured set of guidelines. Today, the Natural Agriculture Association in Japan and South Korea actively promotes and applies this technology. In recent years, China has also introduced this technique, achieving significant success. As a result, more and more farmers are beginning to accept and implement the concept of raising pigs on fermentation beds.
However, the process can be quite complicated for those without a background in microbiology. Steps such as collecting microbial strains and adding active agents can be daunting, leading some farmers to abandon the practice. Additionally, improper handling often results in failure, discouraging further attempts. Fortunately, modern fermentation bed agents have simplified the process significantly. These microbial mixtures are highly effective, fast-acting, and efficient at odor control. They are lab-purified and easy to use, making it possible for even beginners to manage a fermentation bed successfully.
When setting up a fermentation bed, the amount of sawdust is crucial. For an area of about 20 square meters, the bedding layer should be at least 50 cm thick, requiring approximately 6–10 cubic meters of sawdust. Too thin will prevent proper fermentation, while too thick may cause excessive internal heat. The fermentation agent should be evenly spread across the entire litter or in 3–4 layers. It’s best to use dry, aged sawdust; if fresh sawdust is used, let it dry before application.
The bacterial dosage depends on the number of pigs. For around 15 pigs, 2 kg of fermentation agent is recommended. The first 1.6 kg should be applied initially, with the rest added later. The pigpen area should not be less than 10 square meters, and the pig density should not be too high, as overloading can lead to fermentation failure due to excess urine accumulation.
To dilute the agent, mix it with rice bran (or corn flour, or wheat bran) in a ratio of 1:5 or higher. Fresh rice bran provides better nutrients than old ones. If available, a 5% brown sugar solution can be sprayed onto the mixture to enhance microbial activity.
Controlling the fermentation rhythm is key. To speed up the process, you can increase the microbial dosage, pre-activate the bacteria with brown sugar water, add more nutrients like fresh rice bran or urea water, increase the thickness of the sawdust layer, or turn and aerate the bed more frequently. Adjusting the moisture level is also important—keep it below 70% to avoid bad odors caused by spoilage bacteria. Temperatures should stay under 50°C on the surface, 60°C in the core, and never exceed these limits.
If sawdust is unavailable, alternatives like rice husks or straw can be used, but the top 30 cm should still be sawdust. Rice husks must be crushed, and straw should be cut into small pieces (less than 0.5 mm) or broken down, but not too fine.
Maintaining proper humidity is essential. The litter should be kept moist but not overly wet. If it becomes too dry, mist the surface lightly. After pigs urinate, the moisture should not exceed 65%. Ensure that rainwater or groundwater does not seep into the bed. A standard pigpen area should be at least 20 square meters, and anything smaller than 10 square meters is not suitable for a fermentation bed.
Once the system is running smoothly, the lower layer of the bed will darken, emit no foul smell, and have a mild wine-like aroma. The temperature remains stable, and white fungal threads may appear. At this stage, you can remove part of the fermented material for compost or feed, and the bed can last for several years with minimal maintenance.
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